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European textile ecological standards and implementation mechanism
Time:2011-10-09    Browse:5460

The European Commission on May 15, 2002 to make a decision ( 2002 / 371 / EC ), the original given to meet the requirements of the textile community eco-labelling ( Ecolabel ) ecological standards be revised, and released a new ecological textile standard. This means that the EU in further unified, perfect ecological standard Textile and advocacy, promotion of ecological philosophy has taken an important step.

On ecological textile definition at present there is no unified view, from the complete sense should include the following several aspects: ( 1) raw materials of renewable resources and can be reused; ( 2) in the production process does not result in adverse effects; ( 3) in use process, consumer safety and health and environment are not compromised; ( 4) abandoned after the natural conditions in the environment degradation or do not cause new pollution. Because the current ecological textiles that no uniform international standard, so in the actual operation of all approaches also differ in thousands of ways. Ecological textile marker originated in Europe for example, current textile ecology symbol amounted to more than 10 months, such as Eco-label, Oeko-Tex, Milieukeur, White 100 Swan, Toxproof Seal, Eco-Tex, Gut, Clean Fashin and Comitextil etc.. And the introduction of these marks subjects in addition to government agencies, more from some civic groups, such as the international academic community, consumer organizations, the environmental protection agency, manufacturers or retailers, purchasing organization. Therefore, these markers is scientific, authoritative, influence and the degree of acceptance will be subject to certain limitations.

In fact, in current ecological textile field does not exist the so-called "international passport". By what standard, whether need to apply some symbol or must provide a inspection agencies to provide test report, all associated with this initiative actually lies in the hands of the buyer. Of course, as a reference system, establish unified ecological textile standard in recent years has become a international textile clothing trade domain one kind of consensus, and gradually formed two kinds of point of views. One is to Germany, Austria, Switzerland and other European 13 countries on 13 inspection agencies of international ecological textile research and Testing Association represented as finite ecological concept, ecological textiles are the main targets in use will not cause harm to human health. Based on the current stage of economy and science and technology development level, advocates for textiles harmful substances limited and the establishment of the corresponding quality control system, which is called part of the concept of zoology textile. While the Ecolabel advocated is the ecological concept, ecological concept and have great differences. Ecolabel evaluation standard covers a whole life cycle of products on the environment may impact, such as textile products from the fiber plant or production, spinning and weaving, printing and dyeing, processing, finishing, garment production and waste disposal in the entire process may have on the environment, ecology and human health hazards. Therefore, from the sustainable development strategic point of view, Ecolabel is a great potential for development, more ideal ecological standards, and will gradually become the dominant market. In addition, due to the Ecolabel standard is in the form of law introduced, in full within the EU 's legal status is allow all doubt, but its influence also will further expand.

The European Union on textile products authorized use EC Ecolabel ( Ecolabel ) of new ecological textile product standards according to the general process of life is divided into 3 main parts: ( 1) the textile fiber the criteria for inclusion in the fibers include: acrylic, cotton and other natural cellulose seed fiber, polyurethane elastic fiber, flax and other bast fibers, greasy wool and other protein fibers, artificial cellulose fiber, polyamide, polyester and polypropylene and the other is not included in this standard in the fiber, but the mineral fiber, glass fiber, metal fiber, carbon fiber and other inorganic fibers not included. ( 2) textile processing and chemicals standard. Included in this section of standard assessment scope includes: fiber and yarn auxiliaries and finishing agent, insecticide or biological product inhibition, stripping or bleaching, weight gain, auxiliary chemicals, detergent, fabric softener and a complexing agent, bleach, dye, pigment impurities impurities, chrome dyeing, metal complex dyes, azo dyes, carcinogenic, mutagenic or on the reproductive toxic dye, with potentially allergenic dyes, polyester with halogenated carrier, printing, formaldehyde, wet processing wastewater discharges, flame retardant, finishing, finishing agent, filler material, coating, composite and film products. ( 3) performance test standard: contains a dimensional stability in terms of five color fastness, articles and a label terms, in particular: the washing and drying after changes in size, washing fastness, color fastness ( acidic, alkaline ), resistant to wet rubbing fastness, resistant to dry friction color fastness, light fastness and appeared in Ecolabel tag information.

At present, in various national and international trade on ecological textile identification is mainly taken in 3 ways: l, apply for the use of a symbol of the way. Almost all of the authorization to use some kind of signs for the implementation of the principle of voluntary application. Non discrimination, according to the principles of openness, all associated with this product classification, standard, evaluation method, management mechanism, application, review procedures, logo graphics and charging information can open the way to obtain. If the application for authorization to use the E Colabel mark, can by the EU's member institutions designated by the acceptance, by the provisions of audit procedures advise agree to authorize the use of Ecolabel mark. Most use of the mark is valid for one year, the applicant must pay the application fee and annual fee to continue to use, must pass through a prescribed review procedure.

In fact, the choice of method for ecological textiles that are largely designated by the buyer. Choose to use ecological signs for ecological textiles identification, its object is the applicant of the final product. Relatively speaking, the complicated procedures strictly, a long process, cost more, and the use of tags can only be limited to apply for a product or a particular kind of product. Therefore, in the present stage the certification mark of the practical application of face and little.

In fact, the vast majority of the buyer ( importer or distributor ) according to their actual needs or importing country (region ) of the laws and regulations to determine their acceptance criteria, not only for the test items will be deleted, to define the index will change. Some of these monitoring projects because no mature method to detect and suppliers are required to sign an undertaking, assurance in their products do not contain or use its provisions banned chemicals and raw materials. But from long-term look, some authoritative, influential mark standard has great potential for development, and will gradually become in the international trade which has been widely used in ecological textiles standard, such as the European Union 's Ecolabel textiles ecological standards, we must not let down.

 
 
 
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