Clothing woven fabric is used to picking in the form of loom, the yarn through the classics, which consists of zonal staggered, his organization generally plain, twill and satin three categories and their change in organizations (also because modern the application of shuttleless looms, the weaving of these fabrics form without picking, but remain with woven fabric). From composition to classify, including cotton fabrics, silk fabrics, wool fabrics, hemp fabrics, chemical fiber fabrics and woven fabrics and their blends, etc., woven fabrics used in clothing or on both varieties are in production on a number of leading position. Woven garments because of its style, technology, style and other factors, differences in the processing means processes and technology are very different, the following describes the general basics of woven garment processing.
(A), woven apparel production process: surface materials into the factory inspection technology to prepare → cutting → → → buttonhole sewing ironing clinch → → → → packing clothing storage or test shipment.
Material into the plant to conduct an inventory of the number and appearance and internal quality inspection, in order to meet production requirements and put into use. In mass production before the first technical preparations, including a single process, model making and prototyping, like clothing before being confirmed by the customer into the next production process. After cutting fabric, sewing made of semi-finished products, some woven fabrics made of semi-finished products, according to special requirements, be carried out finishing, such as clothing washed, garment sand, twisted wrinkle effect processing, etc., and finally through the keyhole Button auxiliary processes and ironing process, and then passed the test after packaging and storage.
(B), the purpose and requirements of the test material
Good quality fabric to control the product quality is an important part. Into the plant through the fabric of the inspection and determination can effectively improve the rate of authentic clothing.
Fabric inspection, including the appearance of two major aspects of quality and internal quality. Appearance of the fabric on the main test whether there is damage, stains, weaving defects, color and so on. The sand should also note the existence of the fabric of sand road, dead fold printing, sand arytenoid and other defects. Affect the appearance of defects in the inspection Note are required to mark out with, when to avoid the use of the cut.
Include the intrinsic quality of fabric shrinkage, color fastness and weight (Mumi, oz) of three elements. During the test sample should be produced by clipping different manufacturers, different varieties, different colors of representative samples for testing to ensure data accuracy.
At the same time into the plant materials should be tested, such as elastic shrinkage, fusible adhesive fastness, smooth zipper degree, etc., can not meet the requirements for materials shall not be put into use.
(C), the main contents of the technical preparations
In mass production, we should first large-scale production by the technical staff to do before the technical preparations. Technical preparations, including a single process, a model of the kind of clothing design and production of three elements. Technical preparation to ensure smooth production and final product an important means to meet customer requirements.
Process in a single garment processing is the guiding document, the specifications of its clothing, sewing, ironing, packaging and so put forward detailed requirements, with the clothing accessories, stitch density and other details have to be clear, in Table 1 -1. Garment processing of each process should strictly refer to a single process requirements.
Sample size and accurate production requirements, and complete specifications. Accurately match the relevant parts of the contour. Clothing should be marked on the section model number, location, size, direction and quality wire lock and seal the stitching at the model compound chapter.
Upon completion of the development process orders and sample work, small quantities can be kind of clothing production, customer and process requirements for the timely correction discrepancies, and difficulties in the research process in order to smooth high-volume assembly line. After the customer to confirm the kind of clothing after the signing of an important test of one of the bases.
(D), cutting process requirements
Cut before the first draw under the marker model, "complete, rational and economical" is the basic principle of nesting. In the cutting process of the main technical requirements are as follows:
1, the number of drag material point clear, pay attention to avoid defects. 2, for different batches of fabric to be dyed or sand cut in batches to prevent the emergence of the same pieces of clothing on the phenomenon of color. Exist for a fabric color for color to the phenomenon of nesting. 3, when the attention nesting lock straight and silk fabric, silk garment thread direction is in line with technical requirements for pile fabrics (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.) can not be inverted discharge, otherwise it will affect the color of clothing depth. 4, the fabric of a pattern, drag layers of material to the attention of the grid alignment and positioning of cells on clothing to ensure consistency and symmetry. 5, the knife cutting required accuracy, straight lines and smooth. Shop type not too thick, not fabric upper and lower side blade. 6, according to the alignment mark cutting edge model. 7, using cone markers should be careful not affect the appearance of clothing. After cutting the number and experience to conduct an inventory of film work, and specifications of sub-heap of clothing tied, attached to ticket endorsed to paragraph number, location, size and so on.
Table 1-1 × × × company processes a single (Omitted)
(E), sewing sewing process is the center of garment processing, garment sewing according to style, technology and other styles can be divided into two kinds of machine sewing and hand sewing. Implemented in assembly-line sewing process.
Interlining in garment processing in the more general use, its role is to simplify the sewing process, so that uniform quality clothing to prevent deformation and wrinkling, and costumes play a role. Of its kind to non-woven fabrics, woven goods, knitwear, mostly for the base fabric, fusible interlining fabric according to the use and location to choose, and to accurately grasp the stalemate of the time, temperature and pressure, so as to achieve better results .
Processing of woven garments, thread each string according to certain rules configured in the garment units connected to form a strong and beautiful stitch. Traces can be summarized as the following four basic types:
1, the chain stitch chain stitch is a stitch or two sets of strings connected together. Single suture, said single chain stitch. The advantage is less with the line per unit length, the disadvantage is when the chain line break will occur when the lock side of decoherence. Double root suture called double chain stitch sewing, needlework, and by a string sets the hook line from each other, their flexibility and strength are more lock stitch as well, while not easy to decoherence. Single chain stitch commonly used in the jacket hem, sew Kukou Qiao, suit jacket split bar top. Commonly used in the double chain stitch seam, stitched seam province, pants and side seam after seam, such as by drawing more elastic, stronger parts of the force.
2, also known as the shuttle lock stitch stitch lines, connected by the two cross-stitch seam compound in, sewing materials were the same shape at both ends, the stretch, less flexible, but the upper and lower suture more closely. Linear lock stitch is the most common suture stitch, the amount due with less lines, less stretch, commonly used in the two joints of the suture material. Such as the seam, sew province, bags and so on.
3, stitch package is composed of several sets of the root string suture loop in the seam between the edge of the trace material. According to the composition of the suture line number and the title track of their name (single package seam, double seam ... ... six pack Sewing seam). Its characteristics are expected to make the edges are sewn wrap, to prevent the fabric edge to play the role of decoherence. When the stitch under tension, the surface line, the bottom line can be between a certain degree of mutual transfer, thus the flexibility of a good stitch, it is widely used in woven fabric edging. Three-and four-thread overlock seam is the most commonly used products, garments woven edging. Five-thread overlock stitch and the six-lane, also known as "complex trace", by a two-packet gap with three-wire or four-thread overlock stitch combination. The greatest feature is the powerful large, which can be sewn seam and packages to improve the density and stitch sewing productivity.
4, the stretch stitch sewing by the above two lines and a hook set is made to wear each other, sometimes in front with one or two decorative lines. Stretch stitch is characterized by great strength, stretching, good stitch formation, in some cases (such as the seam) to prevent the fabric edge may also play the role of decoherence.
Basic form of stitching as shown in Figure 1-13, in addition to basic sewing, but according to process requirements as well Chouzhe style, embroidered patch and other processing methods. Woven garment sewing needle, thread and stitch density selection should take into account the fabric texture and process requirements.
Needle can "type and number" to be classified, according to the shape of stitches can be divided into S, J, B, U, Y-type, corresponding to the different fabrics, respectively, using the appropriate pin.
The thickness of the needle used in China to distinguish the numbers, the thickness of the increase in numbers as more and more rough, garment processing in general the use of needle-type numbers from 5 ~ 16 different fabrics with different garments thickness of the needle, shown in Table 1-2.
Table 1-2 texture of the fabric of the standard types of stitches
Sewing machine needles (No. Do not): fabric 5: Habotai, Satin 7 ~ 8: Habotai, satin, crepe de chine 9 ~ 10: thin silk, satin, crepe de chine, georgette, voile 11 ~ 12: thin drift cloth, wide cloth, thin wool textiles 13 to 14: wide textiles, pure wool, general textiles 16: General thick textiles (clothes, etc.), tarps
In principle, the choice of suture should be the same fabric texture, with color (especially for decorative design excluded). Generally include silk suture, cotton, cotton / polyester thread, polyester lines. In the choice of suture should also pay attention to the quality of the suture, such as color fastness, shrinkage, fastness rent intensity and so on. Various types of fabric texture criteria to be used sutures in Table 1-3.
Table 1-3 of the standard types of suture material texture
The texture of fabric stitching Silk, wool, silk / synthetic fibers, wool / synthetic to blended silk and wool-based cross-weaving - silk, polyester line Cotton, cotton / synthetic fiber, blended with cotton-based cross-weaving - cotton, cotton / polyester line The outside texture of fabric - polyester thread, cotton / polyester line
Stitch density is the density of the foot pointer to the surface of the fabric exposed within 3cm to determine the number of sutures, can also be used within 3cm fabric to represent the number of pinholes. Woven garment processing in standard stitch density shown in Table 1-4.
Table 1-4 stitch density
Suture categories: the number of needle Lock stitch sewing a straight line (coat): 13 - 15-pin Lock stitch sewing a straight line (in clothes): 15 - 17-pin Interlocking joints: 12 to 13-pin Overlock: 13 to 14-pin 8-pin package seam side lock Hand-sewn Liao (Liao inside flange): 3 to 4 pin Hand-sewn Liao (Liao Ming seam): 7 - 9-pin
The overall requirements of sewing clothing neat and beautiful, can not appear asymmetric, wry, leaks, wrong joints and so on. Stripe fabric in the sewing pattern to pay attention to the cis-splicing at even, of the symmetrical grid, shown in Table 1-5 and Figure 1-14. Requirements of uniform straight suture, rounded at the smooth arc; clothing surface tangent at the level service without wrinkles, small fold; suture in good condition, no broken, floating line, pumping lines, etc.; important parts such as wiring collar shall . Table 1-5 on the grid for the grid of the fabric requirements
Location of the flower parts
Predecessor and down, left and right symmetrical pattern, consistency A2 Symmetrical pattern around the back, consistency A3 About equal coat pattern, consistency A4 Shirt sleeves and sleeve cuffs men's clothing patterns should coincide A5 predecessor Blouse pocket flap pattern coincide with the large body A6 Shirts lateral (axillary) of the lateral pattern should be consistent with A7 Ride around the door take the door equal patterns, consistency B1 Trousers Equal pattern around the hip, consistency B2 Department of the side seam pattern side seam consistency B3 Skirt around the pattern matched class C1
(F), keyhole Button
Clothing in the keyhole and the clinch is usually processed by the machine, buttonhole shape is divided into levels according to their type and eye-shaped hole two, commonly known as sleeping pigeon holes and eyelets.
Sleep well (see Figure 1-15) is widely used for shirts, skirts, pants and other products on the thin cloth. Pigeon eyelets (see Figure 1-16 and Figure 1-17) used for T-shirt, suit coat fabrics such as thick class. Keyhole should note the following: (1) buttonhole position is correct. (2) buttonhole size with the size and thickness of the buttons is complete. (3) is cut open buttonholes good. (4) elastic (elastic) or very thin clothing, to consider the use of locking eyelets in the inner layer when Gabriel reinforcement. Sewing buttons and buttonholes should be corresponding to the position, otherwise they will be allowed to create clothing buckle bit distorted and skewed. Clinch clinch line should also pay attention to the amount and intensity is sufficient to prevent the buttons fall off, thick fabric clothing clinch winding number is sufficient.
(G), ironing People often use "one-third of seven sewing ironing" to emphasize the process of ironing clothes is an important process. Ironing a major role in three points:
1, by spray, ironing cloth to remove wrinkles, flat serving crease. 2, after heat-setting process so that clothing looks flat, pleated, straight lines. 3, the use of "return" and "pull" ironing skills appropriate to change the degree of fiber and fabric sheets shrink warp and weft density and direction of the organization, create three-dimensional shape of clothing to suit the human body and the active requirements, to make clothing to beautiful shape The purpose of wearing comfort.
Affect the fabric ironing the four basic elements: temperature, humidity, pressure and time. One effect of ironing ironing temperature is a major factor. Master a variety of fabric finishing garments ironing temperature is the key issue. Less than ironing ironing temperature is too low results; ironing clothes iron temperature is too high will cause a bad loss.
Ironing temperature of the fiber, but also by the contact time, speed, ironing pressure, with or without mattress, mattress, thickness and water with or without various factors. Table 1-6 is a reference when ironing a variety of fiber temperature.
1, the temperature is too high for too long because of ironing clothes caused by the surface of the phenomenon of the aurora and the hot coke. 2, the clothing surface, leaving a small corrugated folds and other defects ironing. 3, there is leakage of hot parts.
(H), garment inspection
The test should be run through the garment cutting, sewing, buttonhole clinch, ironing, etc. into the whole process. Storage before packaging the finished product should also conduct a comprehensive inspection to ensure product quality.
The main content of the finished product testing are:
1, the same kind of style is the same confirmation. 2, single-size specifications meet process requirements and the kind of clothing. 3, the suture is correct, sewing is neat, flat service. 4, the fabric of grid cells for examination of the clothing article is correct. 5, fabric silk thread is correct, whether the defect on the fabric, oil exists. 6, the existence of the same pieces of clothing in the color problem. 7, ironing is good. 8, Interlining is solid, the phenomenon has glue seepage. 9, the thread has Xiujing. 10, clothing accessories is complete. 11, the size of marks on the clothes, washing mark, trademark and other content are consistent with the actual goods, the location is correct. 12, the overall shape is good clothing. 13, packaging to meet the requirements.
(9), packaging and storage
Mount packaging of clothing and boxes can be divided into two, there are boxes for ordinary packaging and packing of the points.
Or within the packaging refers to a number of pieces of clothing into a plastic bag, clothing section number, size should be consistent with the marked plastic bags, packaging should be smooth and beautiful. Special styles of clothing in the packaging to special handling, such as wrinkled garments twisted twist to the volume form of packaging, in order to maintain its styling.
General use packaging cartons, according to customer requirements or process a single instruction size, colors. Packaging are generally mixed code mixing, code alone single color, single color mixed code, blending unique code four. Packing should pay attention to the number of complete, accurate color matching size. Outside the box on the brush marks on the box, indicating the customer, which are brought to Hong Kong, box number, quantity, origin, etc., the content in line with the actual goods.
